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India in Fashion: The Impact of Indian Dress and Textiles on the Fashionable Imagination

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This week’s round-up of global markets fashion business news also features Dubai Duty Free, Mexican garment workers and Hong Kong beauty giant Sa Sa International. The patiala salwar is an exaggeratedly wide version of the salwar, its loose pleats stitched together at the bottom. Kaupin is unsewn and langota is sewn loincloth worn as underwear in dangal held in akharas especially wrestling, to prevent hernias and hydrocele.

Women started wearing more comfortable clothing and exposure to international fashion led to a fusion of western and Indian styles of clothing. Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai and Chennai are important centers of fashion designing and manufacture in India, followed by Bangalore, Hyderabad, Pune and other large cities.Over the years, popular Bollywood trends have been the Madhubala's Anarkali-look with kurtas and churidars in Mughal-e-Azam (1960), purple embroidered sari worn by Madhuri Dixit in Hum Aapke Hain Koun. Garg is a textile designer and founder of Raw Mango- a design house creating new conversations in textile and culture through a range of saris, garments and objects. The history of clothing in India dates back to ancient times, yet fashion is a new industry, as it was the traditional Indian clothing with regional variations, be it the sari, ghagra choli or dhoti, that remained popular until the early decades of post-independence India. Instead, British-born or Indian-origin UK-based designers like Ashish Gupta, Kaushik Velendra, Priya Ahluwalia and Supriya Lele, have garnered success there, suggests Caroline Rush, CEO of British Fashion Council. Readers will be transported and delighted by explorations of the ancient origins of cotton and indigo, the birth and spread of the fabled Kashmir shawl, and the way traditional saris influenced Elsa Schiaparelli’s couture draping in the 1930s.

Designers must localise their product range and operational strategy to overseas markets without eroding brand equity or undermining their core values and identity. Angarakha is a traditional upper garment worn in the Indian subcontinent which overlaps and is tied to the left or right shoulder.Michelle Obama in a dress by Indian-American designer Naeem Khan, which she wore in 2009 for the first state dinner with then prime minister of India, Manmohan Singh, and his wife. But he has not completely forsaken the Indian market, because there are many Indians in America who still want to go there to get a sari,” said industry veteran Fern Mallis, the creator of New York Fashion Week, and former executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

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